We would spend about 8-10 hours per day in church services. The first service of the day would vary at each monastery according to theirtypikon.  At the first two , Xeropotamou and Karakalou , we would rise at 12:30 am and be in church at 1, ending at about 5 am. A meal would immediately follow. We would sleep for a few hours and then have to catch a ride toKaryes and then to our next destination. Rest a few hours, back in church at 3 pm until about 5, have a meal, get shown around the place and sleep at about 7 or 8 pm and do it all over again. The last fewmonasteries: Philotheou, Vatopedi, and Gregoriou started their morning services at 4 am so we were able to have a more normal daytime schedule. The longest service we attended ran from 12 midnight to7am. 

Although it may seem crazy to be in church that much, it is an indescribable experience. The churches are lit only by oil lamps and candles, there are no electric lights. Thus most of the time it is very dark which one gets use to but there is still somestumbling around. Generally speaking there would always be a monk or two to tell you where to go or help you out. The services were all in Greek but much of the time I knew what was happening. They do every possible facet of the services, but fortunately very quickly. On many occasions I almost fell over after nodding off to sleep. Dosing during services is actually a commonoccurrence even among the monks, it is inevitable given the nature of the schedule. One usually stands in a stall-like chair with arms about elbow height. The chair has a seat the that doubles as a seat and folds up to a half seat so that one can easily stand, half-sit/stand, or completely sit down. These line every wall of the churches; some have hundreds.

The church interiors are frescoed on every surface with of course ancient icons everywhere. While many of the churches are 1000 years or more old they often have been rebuilt or repainted during that time. Most all of monasteries were burned in the19th century by arson after a dispute with the Turks. Others have burned for various other reasons. We were in one church that was repainted right around the time of the American Revolution; it gave me a real sense of time perspective.

We are spending the day in the city seeing the sights.  Tonight we are going to plan the rest of the trip.  We are going to Metorea to see the monasteries there and will probably go to Mt Olympus.  There are of course many churches here in Thessolaniki to visit as well.

Look for more details later.